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Views: 0 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2024-12-09 Origin: Site
Q1. Help with a wiring diagram for a 5 wire led light strip (sengled)
--Background: I cut a 2m sengled LED strip in half (at the designated spot), trimmed off the silicone waterproofing on the outer 1/2" so I could make my connections, then mounted it in an aluminum channel. The power source is on the right. I am getting 0.2 ohms of resistance across each of the 5 wires of the 3ft section that isn't behaving properly and I also checked all wires against each other to make sure there were no shorts. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 5-wire led light strip (sengled)? How could it be possible that R and B channels for a middle section stop working but G and W still work?
A1: Note that the quantity of LEDs will vary depending on fabricant, voltage, power, etc. The schematic only shows that "there is more than one". The position of the resistor is irrelevant (it may be on either side of the LED series). However, pls make sure the resistors are making good contact. You’d better push it down to check.
--Background: I’m using ESP8266 with a WS2815 LED Strip that has 4 wires instead of the normal 3 wires. There are VCC: Red wire, GND: White wire, DAT: Green, and BACKUP: Blue. I believe I’m wiring everything correctly but only the 1~7 LEDs are on but are on the wrong color and uncontrollable through WLED. What is the backup? where do I wire it to the NodeMCU?
A2: Backup is just a second data line in case the first breaks. Wire the backup to GND on the controller side, then start the first LED, it will send the data to both data lines. It seems like your data line is getting some resistance from somewhere, so only 7 LEDs are on. The longer the wires are the more loss in data. Grab a multimeter and measure the current in a series of data lines. Compare your calculated value to the value of what the LEDs should get. If it’s lower than the specifications, make sure your connections are solid and there are no parallel connections other than the data line. Also, measure the board itself to eliminate other possible variables. Pls, check out the wiring diagrams created by u/quindor for his dig uno/quads. That might help you figure out your particular quandary.
Link:https://quinled.info/2019/05/09/quinled-dig-uno-pinoutwiring-guide/
--Background: I want to implement CCT into my self-made lamp which follows the daylight by automatically setting the right light temperature for the time of the day. I am using an RGBCCT 60 LEDs/m WS2805 strip which has two wires one DIN and one BIN. I have not found any library that supports this type of strip, not even Neopixelbus. Neopixelbus only supports single wire based WS2805 strips. Can anyone help me find a solution so I can code my strip or the right codeable CCT strip?
A3: You should try connecting Bin directly to Din. Next, you only have to connect Din to your MCU. You also need to connect V+ and ground to your power supply. Please see the schematic labeled “Controller Connect” below. This might help. If not, you may have to change the LED Type to WS2812 and adjust the color order as well.
--Background: I’m able to connect my govee LED strip to signaling on my pc, and the plugin is using the correct model, but it’s still not lighting up my entire 32 ft strip, only about half of it. I’ve tried everything. Any tips?
A4: You can try and go into device settings, locate the strip, remove the device and click on the + icon to add a new device, and if you find the model of your light strip, select it. If you don't find the model, you can instead of making a custom device and setting how many LEDs there are and it should light up the whole thing.
Video Link:
Q5. Wiring 12v RGB LED to btt Octopus board
--Background: I require a bit of help connecting a 12v RGB LED strip to my Octopus board. The board has a dedicated 3 pin port to control 5v Nanopixel LEDs and my LED strip runs at 12v with 4 pins labeled "+ R G B" so they are not compatible out of the box. The strip works by continuously applying 12v to the "+" pin and then pulling to ground each of the "R G B" to make pretty colors. So my question is if I can wire the "RGB" pin to the negative terminal of each MOSFET. Would that work without connecting the positive side of said MOSFET? The Strip would get the 12v power from the power supply. Here is the pinout for the board, the Heater outputs the ones on the bottom left, labeled "HE0-HE3"
A5: The LED port on the Octopus is for "intelligent" LEDs -- it only has one pin tied to a GPIO port. If you're doing plain-jane RGB, you're going to need three. Looking at the schematic, that probably would work (the heater connections), but watch your current draw. Those pins are switched-ground, so taking the heater voltage (12V) from any of them for the VCC on the strip and putting the ground back to the switched pin on the heaters ought to work then. You could give it a try.
--Background: Recently I bought an LED strip with this "loading effect" for my 2019 Chevy Volt from Temu, and I’d like to install it on the hood edge. My question is, which fuse should I connect the red wire to?
A6: You could get one of those Add A Fuse from your local auto store. Then you’d better use the heated steering wheel fuse and install it into the hood with a weather seal. Powers off when the car is off and will power on for for remote start and when the vehicle is on.
--Background: I'm using two power supplies. One to power the controller, another one to power the LEDs. The two supplies are attached by the -V terminals. Is this right?
A7: Yes, the wiring would be correct. It's ok to use two power supplies like this and the noise on the supplies won't have a large effect on the signal quality generated from them unless truly enormous (as in large enough to damage the lighting) since there are decoupling capacitors on both his microcontroller and the LED strip that decouple the local digital voltage from the supply voltage. The issue is almost certainly the length of the -V wires connecting the two supplies. You could try to wrap the data line and that -V wire together to solve this problem.
--Background: I have recently moved house and want to replace the old security light that no longer works. It’s connected with a small inline connector to a cable with a plug on, which was plugged into a socket in the garage. The light is 20w LED. I have a 2.5mm twin and earth cable, with some sleeving for the earth. I have a 3amp plug and a waterproof connector to join them together, as the wire from the light is only 0.75m, so will be connected outside before it goes through the wall into the garage. All seem correct? The socket is RCD-protected.
A8: The 2.5mm² T&E is almost certainly wrong. It's not suitable for outdoor use, and not being a circular cross-section, it won't seal properly against the inline connector and is too chunky (and not a flex) to go on a plug.
We should know more about the connector interface.
--Background: I want to cut the power of my WS2815 LED strip when it is turned off, to reduce power consumption. Could somebody pls explain why I can’t use it for an addressable LED strip like shown in the picture (the only difference is that I added the green data wire)? Or is that possible?
A9: The main problem is that you're cutting ground from the strip but leaving data connected to the ESP. You may pull current through the data line into the ESP. It would be safer to use a P-FET and cut the +12 line going to the strip, although you won't be able to drive that with a 3.3V logic output.
--Background: I have 3 core cables going to various points in a room. The wiring runs behind the walls and is fed from a central junction box which is recessed into one of the walls. It shows that I need 5 wires from the RGB controller to the LED strips to control them. Is this correct, or is 3 sufficient? I can't run additional wiring. The worst case is that I can run individual controllers at the endpoint of each cable, which is all fed from the same power source. That way I could have 5 wires going from the controllers to the LED strips. But would it be possible for the controllers to operate in sync?
A10: Use addressable LED strip which have lots of 3 wire strips and 4 wires. In non-addressable RGB and RGBW or RGBCCTthe number of wires is one positive wire plus one wire for each color the strip has, so an RGB would be 4 wires, RGBWW 5, RGBCCT 6… digital addressable LEDs have a positive and a negative, and one or more data lines depending type of led type made with. This is the difference between addressable led strip and regular led strip.Ws2811/2812/sk6812 and others use one data line so 3 wires in total. Some have an additional backup data line or use a clock signal for synchronization and have 4 wires. Just adding onto this some controllers handle multiple channels. Possibly a SP608E but it isn't WLED compatible.
